Same Same but Different

We're all the same same, but different.

("Same same" is what people say when they want to sell us something, but we try and go elsewhere)

On our last night in Siem Reap we went to Phare, The Cambodian Circus! Entertaining, funny, and filled with passion and talent, Phare allows Cambodian youth from disadvantaged backgrounds to transform their lives through dance, music and art. The students are graduates of an NGO school and professional arts training center in Cambodia. The show was simply delightful and a great way to end our Cambodia trip.

Cambodia is a place I definitely warmed up to. Despite a few foodborne illnesses, the food wasn't all that bad (we thought it was better in Siem Reap than Phnom Penh), and the people seemed genuinely friendly, hospitable, and grateful (we loved our tuk tuk driver!).

And then like that, we travel to another country where we have to find our bearings all over again. Oh Myanmar (Burma), where do I even begin...?!

When we started planning our trip, Myanmar wasn't originally on the list or even a country we considered. It was after my (former) boss got over the fact that I was quitting, he wholeheartedly respected my decision and he eagerly suggested we visit Burma. And so, we decided that we were going to Myanmar (Burma)! 

Myanmar opened its doors to tourism in 2010 after 50 years of Army-imposed hibernation. And after being here for just a little over 24 hours, it is apparent that tourists/tourism is still pretty new. We haven't seen too many other Westerners around and the locals look at us with such curiosity and perplexity. I must say, this is where we've felt the most out of our comfort zones and at times, a little bit like an outcast.  But Myanmar is one of the most colorful places we've visited - from literally the clothing people wear, to the energy. 

The traffic here is insane. It's like trying to get out of SF traffic, or 5 o'clock rush hour Northway traffic (for those in Upstate NY), only at all hours of the day. There are no tuk tuks but a lot of truck trucks (that was Kiel's joke), and rundown public buses that are always packed with people. 

Myanmar's traditions are quite unique. Many of the locals chew on leaves that contain a mixture of betel nuts and tobacco which turns their mouth and teeth red and causes them to spit...a lot! (Kiel dodged a loogie that almost landed on his foot today.) Women and children paint their faces with a yellow paste (which I learned is made from ground bark and called Thanaka), to enhance beauty and/or act as sunscreen. Both men and women wear the tradition longyi, which is a sheet of cloth worn around the waist like a skirt. (Look out for the photo Kiel wearing one at the Golden Pagoda!)

After 10 hours of travel time and arriving to our hotel a little disappointed by the location/interior, we walked up a block to the closest restaurant and feasted on an Italian meal; pasta, lasagna, garlic bread, and Yangon's version of Caesar salad, which was nothing like it back home. We felt a little funny but knew we would dig into Burmese food the next day. 

We can't always have a pretty hotel room view! Unfortunately the walls in the hotel aren't too sound proof, so some noise kept us awake for a bit along with the banshee-like, howling feral dogs outside. 

Today (Saturday) we explored the streets on Yangon. We weren't too impressed with our lunch at a local noodle spot (but it got good reviews on TripAdvisor!?) -- there were flies everywhere and my vegetarian dish came out with chicken on it.

The architecture was quite interesting...

old vs. new

After lunch we walked over to the Sule Pagoda. Come to find out, today was the Full Moon of Waso, which is considered a public holiday and the beginning of Buddhist lent. 

We clearly stuck out like sore thumbs among all of the temple go-ers when a young, friendly guy approached us, and asked us where we were from, yadda yadda.  This former monk taught us a few things about the Full Moon and Buddhist traditions, showed us pictures of him teaching and feeding children, told us about when Obama came to visit, walked us around the temple....and then...asked for money. We gave him 10,000 Kyat (the equivalent to $7 USD), but the problem I had is when he asked for more money, " How about $20 because giving is good Karma", he insisted. After Kiel politely said 'no' a second and third time, the guy turned to me and said, "But it's for the children, how about $10 from you and $10 from you." Whether he was being genuine or scamming us, I do not tolerate being treated like a walking ATM machine (which is how a lot of these SEA countries treat foreigners), and unfortunately that tainted things a bit for me. Such is travel at times.

After that, we stopped at a bakery to chill out before heading to the Shwedagon Pagoda. But as we walked around Kandawgyi Lake on our way to the Pagoda, we got caught in a torrential downpour (not a good time to be wearing a white shirt!). Somehow all of the locals stayed dry and we walked the city streets sopping wet, with people giving us funny stares. 

Walking along the boardwalk of the lake, it felt like all of the wooden pallets were going to fall out from underneath us.

We made it to The Shwedagon Pagoda which was constructed 2,600 years ago. It was absolutely amazing! Depending on how the sun hit it, it would turn more golden and shiny. The photos don't really do the setting justice but the entire place was just so fascinating, as were the people. 

We stuck out again because they make foreigners wear stickers. I had a cute little girl come up to me and smile, then she whispered to her friend and pointed at Kiel and giggled. 

Stairway up to get to the Pagoda...

Apparently Kiel's shorts didn't cover his knees so he had to rent a longyi.

After the temple we took a stroll through the local market...all the food, textiles, flowers you could want, and fake Chanel wallets.

We ended the night with a surprisingly tasty meal at a local place called  Jana Mon . Ignorantly, we had no idea what Mon food was or what exactly we were ordering off the menu, but our server was smiley, as helpful as could be, and the food came out great. Until next time....